Glacier Bay

July 9-15, 2008

Day One:  Our friends, Paula and Tom Millar with their 14 year old daughter Laura, joined us in Juneau for the Glacier Bay adventure.  We left Juneau early Wednesday morning and headed for Hoonah, 60 miles toward the park.  Hoonah is a small village populated by  mostly native peoples and is a frequently used jumping off point for park goers.  Along the way, we spotted several humpback whales and were fascinated by the sight of them.  Then we got really lucky!! We came upon a pod of nine humpbacks that were feeding near shore.  Sometimes when a herd of humpbacks feeds together, they work as a team.  It's called a Bubble Feeding.  A documentary film's description of this event is as follows:  "The humpback whales have developed one of the most unusual feeding strategies of the sea.  In a coordinated action, they build nets made of bubbles to encircle small schools of fish.  Then while one submerged whale screams to concentrate the prey, they all rocket upward through the bubble net to engulf the trapped fish in their huge mouths.  It's a perfect strategy.  The fish won't cross the barrier of bubbles.  Seldom seen by humans, it is one of nature's most extraordinary sites."  The herd that we saw performed this act six times for us!

The whale show continued as we approached Hoonah.  We came upon a pod of transient Orcas with the "Hoonah Hooker" among them.  The Hoonah Hooker (named by us because his dorsal fin was hooked at the top) was a male Orca traveling with four females.  At first we couldn't tell what was sticking up out of the water.  It looked like a periscope or the Lochness Monster.  Maybe this was Willy from the movie "Free Willy".  Who knows?  But it was sure a site to see!

Day two:  After spending the night at the marina in Hoonah, we set off early the next morning for Bartlett Cove, inside Glacier Bay National Park.  All boaters are required to attend an orientation meeting at the Park Service headquarters where they explained the rules, gave tips on places to go and alerted us to wildlife sightings.  We followed the orientation with lunch at the Glacier Bay Lodge then ventured into the park. 

Our first stop was South Marble Island which is a bird sanctuary and sea lion rookery.  There we saw our first Puffins, an endangered species of a small, darling sea bird.  Paula says they don't look real but like cute stuffed animals.  Thousands of birds soared in flocks around the rocks and nested on the rock faces.  An eagle feasted on a dead sea lion which rested on a bare rock except for a lone male sea lion.  Had it been his victim in the fight for the precious rock territory?

Littered upon the rocks of the south end of the island were hundreds of sea lions.  When we first approached, they were noisy, stinky and virtually immobile.  They seemed to be lazy creatures whose movements appeared strained and full of effort.  The belching noises had no urgency to them as they seemed passed out from a long night of partying.  Then suddenly, the birds flushed out from the rock wall in a chaotic swirl and the sea lions stirred.  The large white male on the outermost rock rose up and seemed to bark orders.  The rest of the rookery immediately became alert, ready to receive orders from their commander!  Within minutes, a pack of about fifty young ones bailed off the rock in succession and swam frantically as a pack at the base of the rock, all diving and rising simultaneously. 

Day three:  Muir Inlet to McBride Glacier.  The mouth to McBride Glacier was thick with icebergs so our closest approach was about a mile.  There were several kayakers on the beach there who appeared to have camped overnight.  Following this sight seeing excursion, we cruised back down Muir Inlet and into John Hopkins Inlet.  We anchored at Blue Mouse Cove, where our friends, Linda and John from Seabird, were anchored.  It was nice to reconnect with them.

Day four:  We left Blue Mouse Cove early to maximize our day at Margerie Glacier where we had heard there was much calving activity.  We weren't disappointed!  Minutes after our arrival, the glacier began to break off pieces and tumble into the water with loud booms and spectacular splashes followed by large waves that rocked the boat.  The sun came out (finally!) and we enjoyed an afternoon on the foredeck just watching the glacier change shape.  It seemed to come alive!  (See more photos.)

Later in the day, we went on to Reid Inlet to anchor for the night.  Reid Glacier only reaches the water at high tide.  We arrived at low tide and went ashore to explore.  We were able to walk right up to the glacier and see inside the caves which housed glacial waterfalls.  The glacier moaned and a few rocks fell but we did not see any calving.  This was a small glacier in comparison to the others we had seen.

Day five: We woke to a glorious sunny morning - and no engine!  While Eric and Tom worked with Russell via satellite phone, the rest of us played cards on the foredeck in the sunshine surrounded by beautiful mountains.  Two hours later, we were off and heading back up John Hopkins Inlet to seek out more glaciers.  We followed a small excursion vessel into the increasing ice pack to within a mile and a half of the John Hopkins Glacier.  Just ahead on thick ice floats were dozens of harbor seals with their pups.  With a backdrop of the Fairweather Mountains, it was the most spectacular scenery in the park. 

After eating lunch on the foredeck amidst this unique natural landscape, we retraced our route and sidled up to Lamplugh Glacier.  The photos didn't do justice to the blue strata of colors or the power of the gushing water pouring from a strange orifice on the glacier wall.  We sat in awe of this sight as we listen to the roar of the interglacial waterfall.  We spent our last night in the park at an intimate anchorage in Geikie Inlet.   

Day six:  Throughout the passages to the glaciers, we remarked at the lack of wildlife activity the further into the inlet we went.  Since we had read about the wildlife and been told special animal rules by rangers before entering the park, we began to wonder what all the fuss was about.  Then we saw them!  Dozens and dozens of whales feeding along the shores as we were leaving Glacier Bay.  Some even put on shows for us, slapping their tails and breaching into the air.  It was the perfect send off. 

Outside of the park, the whale activity continued as well as sea otters and seals.  We stopped for the night on a small state dock at Funter Bay where we celebrated Eric's birthday. 

Parting impressions:  Each person who visits Glacier Bay sees its differently.  For example, the Millars found the weather to be balmy; we considered it way too cold for summer temperatures.  We all agreed on the shear beauty of the place and were astonished by the vastness of the area.  We found glaciers to be unique natural wonders and we were amazed at how each had its own personality:  one was alive with calving activity; one sat back on shore so we could walk up and touch it; one heaved water out of its side; and one was breathtaking because of its enormous size and surrounding mountain beauty.  Glacier Bay National Park is truly a national treasure and we feel honored to have been able to spend time in this unique part of the world.   

Day seven:  Back to Juneau